Adventure On Goshikidai

日本語
Our group of foreign resident “Henro” pilgrims assembled on Sunday November 14, 2010 in the quiet space of Kokubunji Temple.  After paying our respects there, we set about climbing the steep path up Goshikidai Plateau.  As we made our approach to the summit, many of us were breathing quite hard.  However, we all experienced something just below the peak that really lifted our spirits back up.  We had heard that if you hold out birdseed at a certain spot on the trail, then small birds called yamagara (cyanistes varius) will flock down from the surrounding trees.  When we actually tried this, we found that, sure enough, it worked!  Having these birds lithely perch on and peck the seeds from our hands was a thrill that brought us all a very warm feeling of happiness. 

Such wonderful joy!

Offering up birdseed to
The yamagara

We reached the top of the plateau and headed for Shiramineji.  As we walked, the trees would sometimes open up and we could see the Sanuki Plains, dotted with hills painted a deep autumn red.  We bowed our heads at the main hall when we arrived at Shiramineji.  To the side of the hall was a yellow maple tree burning with vivid brightness, and it was as if we could feel the presence of the Buddha himself.

The late autumn leaves

Of Shiramine Temple
Shining Brilliantly

We trod for many kilometers on the undulating path leading from Shiramineji to Negoroji.  Our legs began to tire, but we finally reached the last temple of our trek.  The assistant head priest of Negoroji was kind enough to greet us and talk to us about the origin of the temple’s name, its history, and its legends.  Among his stories, the most interesting by far was that of the “Cow Demon.”  This was a monster of lore who was said to have terrorized the local citizens.  However, an intrepid archer came, and after praying at the temple for 21 days, he set out and defeated the great Cow Demon.  The Cow Demon’s horns are said to be kept at the temple to this day, and there is a frightening statue of the beast near the main gate, with his claws perpetually pointed out in animosity.

Gazing away at

Early winter maple leaves –
Cow Demon’s Statue

Our band of pilgrims left Negoroji, and strung out along the mountain road, we slowly made our way to Kinashi Station, our ending point.  After 18 kilometers of pilgrimage, our hearts were very content.

Journey to the Hidden Mountain Temple

日本語

I worked as an Assistant Language Teacher (ALT) for the two years from August 2006 to August 2008 at Toyonaka Junior High School in Mitoyo City, Kagawa Prefecture.  However, during that whole time, I never once set foot inside Motoyamaji despite the fact that I commuted to work everyday on the street that runs right in front of the temple.  I finally took my first steps inside on April 24, 2010 during the 5th Shikoku 88 Temple Circuit Experience for Foreign Residents and Visitors, with a group of fifteen other “pilgrims.”  We took in the gracefully curved lines of the temple’s Main Hall, which was built during the Kamakura Period (1185-1333) and is a designated National Treasure, and we peered up at the towering five-storied pagoda.  The beauty of the temple made me think to myself, “Why didn’t I come here sooner?” 
Gazing up, up at
The temple’s tall pagoda -
Awash in Spring’s calm

Our group left Motoyamaji and set off to the north.  We passed Mitoyo’s plentiful reservoirs and its low, rolling plains as we hiked 11 km up a path that gradually became steeper.  We then reached the base of Kengozan Mountain, where we began our ascent up the steep path.  On the way we saw a rest stop called the Haiku Jaya, on the walls of which were hung hundreds upon hundreds of haiku poems, written by pilgrims passing on their way through.  We saw a strange piles of rocks called the “Sai no Kawara,” which are said to have been made by the spirits of deceased young children in a display of respect for their parents and ancestors.  We also saw the awesomely tall statue of Kongoken Bosatsu, or the bodhisattva with clasped hands, bending down to greet us as we passed by before finally arriving at Iyadaniji.  I found it enchanting that, even though the temple cannot be seen from below on the approach, when you look out from its inner sanctuary, you can see the whole of Mitoyo City lying before you.  It was truly a beautiful view.  

Clear, shining spring day -
Secretly hidden temple
In the mountain folds

At Iyadaniji, the Daishi Hall (the hall dedicated to Kōbōdaishi Kūkai, the Buddhist monk who is credited with founding the Shikoku Pilgrimage) is built into a mountain cave called the Shishi no Iwaya – the Lion’s Mouth Cave.  Here the chief priest gave us an explanation of the history of the temple, as well as an introduction to some of the special customs of Iyadaniji, such as the “Iyadani Mairi,” in which people bring the hair and finger nails of the deceased members of their family as offerings.  After this, we hiked a little higher up to see the Main Hall and the images of the Buddha carved into the mountain wall before attempting the perilous downhill descent of the Pilgrimage Trail.  Here, the path completely crumbled away at certain points and it merged with a mountain stream at others.  Though it felt dangerous at times, we couldn’t help but be mesmerized by the beauty of the sunlight filtering through the mountain’s green trees.  We made a leisurely walk of the last 6 km to Kaiganji Station, and beneath the sunset of a gentle evening sky, the 5th Henro Experience came to a close.
 
Exiting the woods
At the skirt of the mountain –
Pilgrims clad in white