The Autumn Road Connecting Yashima and Yakuri

日本語

On the cloudy morning of November 28, 2009, 17 pilgrims assembled from seven different countries at Kotoden Yashima Station before setting out for the slopes of Yashima Mountain, covered in its autumn red.  When we reached Yashimaji Temple at the top of the mountain, we prayed at the Main Hall and at the Daishi Hall.  Then, as we enjoyed the surrounding nature, we tried a hand at
kawaranage.*

facing the valley,
throwing clay kawarake**
into the north wind

*kawaranage: a custom of making a wish as you throw small clay disks from a mountain or tall place
** kawarake: the clay disks thrown in kawaranage.

At the lookout point called “Shi-shi no Reigan,” we felt the cool wind on our skin, and we quietly composed haiku poems as we looked out at the calm Seto Inland Sea.

autumn’s red colors –
writing poetry at the
top of Yashima

Right before leaving Yashima, we discovered a solitary maple tree, whose　red leaves were flowing altogether in the gently blowing wind.  Those leaves were like a flame dancing atop a candlewick.

redly, more redly
a solitary maple’s
burning autumn leaves

We trekked from the top of Yashima to the middle of Gokenzan Mountain, and then we arrived at the Main Hall of Yakuriji Temple.  The Assistant Head Priest of the temple then treated us to warm amazake# and friendly conversation.

autumn pilgrims and
a welcome helping of some
sweet amazake


#amazake: sweet, lightly alcoholic drink made from fermented rice

Right as we were about to climb down from Yakuriji Temple, we looked up to see the clean rock face of Gokenzan Mountain clearly above us.

slopes all decked in red,
towering into the sky:
Gokenzan Mountain

The Summer Pilgrims Who Crossed the Mountain

日本語

After gathering at Nagaoji Temple, we all donned the white byakue vests worn by the pilgrims on the 88 Temple Circuit, and we firmly gripped our kongōjō pilgrim staffs.  As we stood beneath a giant camphor tree, a monk from the temple taught us about the history of Nagaoji, including the fact that on the temple’s main hall can still be found the family crest of the Matsudaira Clan – the feudal lords of Takamatsu who used to give patronage to the temple.

Nagao Temple-
Hollyhock family crest
Adorns the main hall

Relaxed and at ease, we walked to Maeyama Dam, where we took a break.  At the “Henro Salon” there, we ate our packed lunches as we gazed at the verdant trees around us.  As we set out again, the clouds in the sky darkened and we were afraid it might rain.  Yet intrepidly, we carried on along the mountain road.  As we climbed up the slope, the nature around us became ever more impressive.  We spotted wild animals, such as birds and monkeys, and amongst the mountain farmers’ fields, we heard the sound of golden stalks of wheat whispering in the wind.

Flying round and round
A black kite riding the wind-
Wheat harvesting time

In the end, the rain we had worried about never really came, but the final road up to Mt. Nyotai was quite difficult.  However, it was extremely impressive to stand at the peak there and take in the beautiful scenery below.  As we arrived at the final temple of the 88 Temple Circuit, Ōkuboji, our byakue were thoroughly drenched with sweat, and yet we all held a great feeling of accomplishment.  While bowing in prayer at the Kobo-Daishi Hall of the temple, I thought about all of the pilgrims who trek along the entire 88 Temple Circuit throughout the year, and I could really appreciate their effort.

At Ōkuboji
A group of summer pilgrims
Slumps to take a rest